Saturday, December 1, 2012

At Home Vest and Pants {Crochet Pattern}


McCall's Step-By-Step Crochet Lesson for Beginners, 1971 

Embroidered vest tops wide-flaring pants, for at-home elegance. Pants, worked in single and double crochet, are lined. The single crochet vest is embroidered with chained feather stitch, straight stitch, French knots, couching, lazy daisy stitch, and cable stitch.

SIZES:  10 to 16 (see pattern for body measurements)


PANTS:
SIZES:
Directions for size 10. Changes for sizes 12, 14 and 16 are in parentheses. 

Body Waist: 24" (25-1/2 -27"-29").  
Blocked Waist Size (closed): 25" (26"-28"-30").  
Blocked Hip Size: 36" (38"-40"- 42").  

MATERIALS: Wintuk sport yarn, 2 ply, 12 (13-14-15) 2-oz. skeins camel. Aluminum crochet hook size E. One 1/2" button. One large hook and eye. 7" skirt zipper. One yard 1/2" elastic. 2-1/2 yards lining material. Matching sewing thread.  
GAUGE: 5 sts=1"; 4 rows=1". 
  
PANTS: 
RIGHT BACK: Beg at upper edge, ch 9.  
First Short Row: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across - 8 sc. Ch 1, turn.  
2nd Short Row: Sc in each of 7 sc, 3 sc in last sc--10 sc. Ch 22 (24-26-28). Turn.  
Next Row: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each of next 20 (22-24-26) ch, sc in each sc across-31 (33-35-37)  sc. Ch 1, turn.
 

Pattern: 
Row 1 (wrong side): Sc in first sc, * dc in next sc, sc in next sc, repeat from * across--31 (33- 35-37) sts. Mark end of this row for center  back. (Note: Mark this row for right side on left back.) Turn. Check gauge; last row should measure 6" (6-1/2"-7"-7-1/2') wide. 
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), sk first sc, * sc in next dc, dc in next sc, repeat from * across. Ch 1, turn. 
Row 3: Sc in first dc, * dc in next sc, sc in next dc, repeat from across--31 (33-35-37) sts. Turn.  
Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), dc in first sc (inc made), * sc in next dc, dc in next sc, repeat from * across, end 2 dc in last sc (inc made). Turn. 
Row 5: Ch 3, sk first dc, * sc in next dc, dc in next sc, repeat from * across, end sc in next dc, sc in top of ch 3--33 (35-37-39) sts. Ch 1, turn.   
Row 6: Sc in first sc, * dc in next sc, sc in next dc, repeat from * across, end dc in last sc, sc in top of ch 3.
Rows 7-21: (Repeat rows 4-6) 5 times, end center back edge-43 (45-47-49) sts. Turn.  
Row 22: Ch 3, dc in first sc (inc made), * sc in next dc, dc in next sc, repeat from * across. Ch 1, turn.
Row 23:
Sc in first dc, work in pat across, end sc in last dc, sc in top of ch 3. Turn. 

Row 24: Ch 3, sc in first sc (inc made), dc in next sc, sc in next dc, repeat from * across, end dc in last sc. Ch 1, turn. (Note:  I am not sure where the * is--this is exactly as written in the book.) 
Row 25: Sc in first dc, dc in next sc, work in pat across, end dc in last sc, sc in top of ch 3-45 (47-49- 51) sts. Turn. Repeat rows (22-25) 5 (5-6-6) times--55 (57-61-63) sts. If necessary, work even until piece measures 11-1/2" (12"-13"13-1/2") from start, end center back edge. Ch 6 (6-6-8) for crotch, turn. 
Crotch Row: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, (dc in next ch, sc in next ch) 2 (2-2-3) times, work in pat across--60 (62-66-70) sts. Mark each side of last row for start of leg. 
Leg: Work even until leg measures 7" from marker, end center back edge. Ch 1, turn.  
Shape Leg: Row 1: Sc in first dc, work in pat across, end 2 dc in last sc (inc made). Turn.  
Row 2: Ch 3, sk first dc, sc in next dc, work in pat across, end dc in last sc. Ch 1, turn.
Row 3:
Sc in first dc, work in pat across, end sc and dc in top of ch 3 (inc made). Ch 1, turn.  

Row 4: Sc in first dc, work in pat across, end dc in last sc. Ch 1, turn. Repeat these 4 rows 8 times - 78 (80-84-88) sts. Work even until piece measures 26-1/2" (27"-27-1/2"-28") from marker or 1" less (stretch allowance) than desired leg length.  
Side Edging: From right side, work 1 row sc on each side edge, including crotch, being careful to keep work flat.
LEFT BACK: Work as for right back, noting changes. Work side edgings, being careful to have piece reverse of right back. 
LEFT FRONT: Work as for right back, having end of first pat row at center front, until 25th row is completed--45 (47-49-51) sts. Repeat rows (22-25) 4 (4-5-5) times--53 (55-59-61) sts. If necessary, work even until piece measures 10-1/2" (11"-12"-12-1/2") from start, end center front edge. Ch 6 (6-6-8) for crotch, turn.  
Next Row: Work as for crotch row of right back--58 (60-64-68) sts. Mark each side of last row for start of leg. 
 Leg: Work evenly until leg measures 6" from marker, end center front edge. Ch 1, turn.  
Shape Leg: Rows 1-4: Work as for right back. Repeat these 4 rows 9 times--78 (80-84-88) sts. Complete as for right back. Work side edgings.  
RIGHT FRONT: Work as for left front, mark first pat row for right side. Work side edgings. 
 FINISHING: Steam-press pieces. Using pieces for pattern, cut lining, allowing 1/2" on all edges for seams and 1" on each piece at waistline for darts. Weave center front seam to crotch markers. Leaving 7" opening at upper edge, weave center back seam to crotch. Weave side and leg seams. From right side, work 1 rnd sc around lower edge of each leg.
 

Waistband: From right side, beg at left side of opening, work 1 row sc around waistline, ch 10 for over- lap. Turn. 
Row 2: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch and st across. Ch 1, turn each row.  
Rows 3-5: Sc in each sc across. At end of last row, do not turn, sc in edge of each of 5 rows. Ch 1, turn. 
Buttonloop: Sc in first sc, ch 5, sk next 3 sc, sc in next sc, turn, sl st in each of 5 ch, sl st in sc. End off.  
Casing: Work casing on inside of waistband. Cut elastic 1" longer than waist measurement; insert in casing. Sew ends securely. Sew zipper in opening below waistband.
     Assemble lining. Insert lining, hem lining to lower edge of waistband. Hem lining 1" shorter than legs. Fasten overlap with a hook and eye. Sew button inside waistband under buttonloop. Steam-press lightly on wrong side.

  
VEST: 
SIZES: Directions for size 10. Changes for sizes 12, 14 and 16 are in parentheses.  
Body Bust Size: 32-1/2" (34"-36"-38").  
Blocked Bust Size: 34", (36"-38"-40").  

MATERIALS: Wintuk sport yarn, 2 ply, 4 (4-5-5) 2-oz. skeins violet, main color (MC). Alum. hook size H.  
For Embroidery: 1 skein camel (A) and 1/2 oz. each of red (B) and white (C). Tapestry needle No. 18.
  
GAUGE: 4 sc = 1"; 9 rows = 2". 
To Bind Off: At beg of a row, ch 1, sl st loosely across specified sts;  at end of a row, leave specified sts unworked.  
To Dec 1 St: At beg of a row, ch 1, loosely pull up a lp in each of 2 sts, yo and through 3 lps on hook;     at end of a row, pull up a lp in each of last 2 sts, yo and through 3 lps on hook.  
To Inc 1 St: Work 2 sc in same sc.  

VEST: BACK: Beg at lower edge with MC, ch 69 (73-77-81).  
Row 1 (right side): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across - 68 (72-76-80) sc. Ch 1, turn.  
Row 2: Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn each row. Repeat this row until piece measures 15-1/2" (15-1/2"- 16"-16") from start or desired length to underarm. Check gauge; piece is 17" (18"-19"-20") wide.   
Shape Armholes: Bind off (see To Bind Off above) 4 sts each side of next row. Dec 1 St (see To Dec 1 St above) each side every row 3 (4-5-5) times--54 (56-58-62) sc. Work even until armholes measure 7" (7-1/2"-8-"-8-1/12") above first bound-off sts.  
Shape Neck and Shoulders: Bind off first 4 sts, ch 1, sc in each of next 14 (15-16-17) sc, drop yarn; with another strand of MC, make lp on hook, sk next 18 (18-18-20) sc, sc in next sc, sc in each of next 13 (14-15-16) sc--14 (15-16-17) sc each side. Working on both sides at once, dec 1 St at each neck edge every other row twice; at the same time, bind off 3 sts at each armhole edge every row 3 times. End off.  

LEFT FRONT: Beg at lower edge, with MC, ch 23 (25-25-27). 
Row 1 (right side): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across - 22 (24-24-26) sc. Ch 1, turn each row. Mark end of first row for center edge. (On right front, mark beg of first row for center edge.) Work in sc, inc 1 St (see To Inc 1 St above) at front edge every row 12 (12-14-14) times - 34 (36-38-40) sc. Check gauge; last row should measure 8-1/2" (9"-9-1/2"-10") wide. Work even until piece measures 15-1/2" (15-1/2"-16"-16") from start, end side edge.  
Shape Armhole and Neck: Bind off 4 sts at beg of next row. Dec 1 St at arm side every row 3 (4-5-5) times; at the same time, dec 1 St at neck edge every 4th row 9 (9-9-10) times--18 (19-20-21) sc. Work even, if necessary until piece measures same as back to shoulder, end arm side.  
Shape Shoulder: Bind off 4 sts at beg of arm side once, 3 sts every row 3 times; at the same time, dec 1 st at neck edge every other row twice. End off.  
RIGHT FRONT: Work same as left front, reverse shaping, note changes.  

FINISHING: Steam-press pieces. Weave shoulder and side seams. 

BUTTON: Beg at center with A, ch 2.  
Rnd 1: 10 sc in 2nd ch from hook; do not join.  
Rnds 2 and 3: Sc in each sc around.  
Next Rnd: (Sc in each of next 2 sc, dec 1 sc) around. Stuffing button with scraps of A, repeat around until 5 sc remain. End off, leaving an 8" length. Draw sts tog; sew to vest after embroidery is completed. 

Edging: 
Rnd 1: From right side, beg at lower left side seam, with MC, work 1 rnd sc around entire outer edge, keeping work flat, join with a sl st in first sc. Cut MC; join A. Do not turn.  
Rnd 2: Sc in each sc around. 
Rnd 3: SI st in each sc around. End off. With MC, from right side, work 1 row sc around each armhole, keeping work flat. When embroidery is completed, sew button to left front edge at start of neck decs. With MC, make ch of 6 sts; sl st in each ch and attach to right front edge for buttonloop.  

Embroidery: See chart for placement of embroidery on vest. Each square represents 1". With basting thread or pins, mark line 1-1/2" in from edge all around vest. See image below for all embroidery stitches. With 2 strands of A in needle, embroider over line in cable stitch. With 2 strands of A, using straight stitches, embroider pointed border outside cable stitch, each point formed by 3 straight stitches, crossed by a short stitch and tipped with a French knot. With single strand of B, embroider border of chained feather stitch just inside cable stitch. With 2 strands of A for laid thread and single strand for couching, make lines on fronts only about 3-1/2" long and 2" apart at right angles to border; see chart for position of lines at curves. Work zigzag line of couching from border in to center point of lines and back again to border. Work another zigzag line completing diamond shapes. In each diamond, with 2 strands of B, work 2 lazy daisy stitches, making a straight stitch in center of each daisy petal. With single strand of C, work 4 French knots in each diamond; connect with straight stitches.  


*Disclosure:
I found this pattern in a book while going through some stuff that I was given from some family members.  I thought it was cool and couldn't find it anywhere else, so I'm sharing it with you.  I really want to make the pants in a very soft bamboo yarn... wouldn't those be lovely?  So in other words, it's not my pattern, and I've never tried it.  If you try it, (either the vest or the pants) I would love to see what you do with it, and when I'm all through holiday crafting, I'm going to try it (and probably edit the pattern in some way, shape or form) and I'll share it with you!  

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